PERMANENT COSMETICS: WHAT YOU MUST KNOW IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT GETTING IT Chapters & Sub-headline summary
Chapter 1. About the Author Desiree Lauterbach, PCS., MTS
CHAPTER 2. Is it PC, PMU, MP, DA, Dermagraphics, or MT? What is the difference in terms?
CHAPTER 3. Is it called Long-Lasting Makeup, Semi-Permanent, or Permanent? What is the difference in terms?
CHAPTER 4. Terms For Providers What is the difference in what term a provider uses to call themselves?
CHAPTER 5. License & Insurance Is your permanent makeup technician licensed and insured?
CHAPTER 6. Portfolio & Testimonials Does your PMU technician have before and after portfolio? Video testimonials with dates on them? Do they have recent testimonials? Will they allow you to contact them about their experience? What should you think about online reviews? What is the best way to find someone good?
CHAPTER 7. Experience & Skill How experienced is the technician and how much training have they had? Initial training was when? Has continuing training been done?
CHAPTER 8. Technician Background What is the technician’s background? Is it medical, artistic, both, or neither? How long have they been in Permanent Cosmetics technician or in the beauty industry and how active have they been?
CHAPTER 9. Procedures What procedures do they offer?
CHAPTER 10. Expectations Do they have realistic expectations?
CHAPTER 11. Association Membership Do they belong to Permanent Cosmetics associations?
CHAPTER 12. Impression Of Technician What was your first impression of the technician? Do they look clean, were they patient, seem knowledgeable in the area of expertise you are looking for services.
CHAPTER 13. Consultations Is the person consulting with you also the person that will perform procedural services on you? Do they offer you a FREE consultation & give you time to think about it or are they pushy to book you? What to expect at your initial consultation.
CHAPTER 14. Pigments What pigments do they use? Not all pigments are alike. You need to know what to avoid.
CHAPTER 15. What to do to in the days prior to your procedure & what they will do on procedure day.
CHAPTER 16. After Care Do they offer you FREE after care package?
CHAPTER 17. Healing
CHAPTER 18. Follow-up with color boost Do they offer you FREE follow-up appointment with color boost touch-up if needed? Will they perform more than one color boost touch-up appointment if it is needed at no cost to you or only if you pay them an additional fee?
CHAPTER 19. Facility Condition Does the facility look clean and sanitary?
CHAPTER 20. Condition Of Technician Are they hygienic? Does the PMU technician use new, sealed, sanitary, and disposable needles for each individual client for safe practices?
CHAPTER 21. Anesthetics & Pain Control Training Does the PMU technician use topical anesthetics or give options to ease procedure discomfort? Do they offer this to you FREE or do they charge you additionally for this? Are they trained in pain control?
CHAPTER 22. Payments What kind of payments do they take? If paying by credit card, what will the charge read on your billing statement? Do they provide receipts for cash payments? Payment fees?
CHAPTER 23. Discounts, Specials, & Gift Certificates Are they willing to discount for multiple services paid for at once if you buy them as a package deal? If so, will they do them all at one time or during how many visits? Kinds of special offers. Offer restrictions.
CHAPTER 24. Cancelations, reschedules, & deposits
CHAPTER 25. The #1 thing you need to do is… Copyright ©2015 Desiree L. Lauterbach All rights reserved. This book, nor any portion thereof, may be used or reproduced in any manner without first having obtained the express written consent of the author.
CHAPTER 1 About The Author
Desiree Lauterbach is the head Permanent Cosmetics Specialist of the Center For Permanent Makeup. She is a certified in multiple areas of Permanent Cosmetics and Dermagraphics /paramedical tattoo. She has a solid artistic background, and a history of work in nursing assistance and makeup application. She works with clients of all ages and those with specific beauty needs. Her professionalism and attention to detail are second-to-none which is why people from all over come to have her work her magic on them! A perfectionist when it comes to the end result, Desiree is committed to excellence. She has received her training from some of the best Master Educators in the Permanent Cosmetics and Dermagraphics industry. She believes in seeking out and continuing education so as utilize only the latest and greatest techniques and equipment for the benefit of her clients. She dedicates time on a regular basis to furthering her education, and she passes on the benefits of her knowledge to her clients and to those she trains. She offers 1-on-1 training in beginning through advanced procedure programs in Permanent Cosmetics and Dermagraphics/Paramedical Tattoo, and a course in business marketing for industry providers. She works with plastic surgeons, and when necessary they can call on her to perform Dermagraphics / Paramedical Tattoo services. As a Pink Provider, she offers her Simulated Areola Reconstruction services provider fee FREE to postmastectomy Cancer survivors after they've gone through breast reconstruction surgery. Desiree is also the founder of the Patriot Project which provides provider fee FREE scar camouflage services to Active Duty, Veteran, and Retired Military. Having been raised in a military family and married a military service officer, she has only the utmost respect for our military. Desiree uses SofTap and Microblading method as well as a state-of-the-art Digital Machine specifically designed for use in Permanent Makeup and Dermagraphics/paramedical tattoo! Before you decide on anyone else to do your Permanent Cosmetics and/or Dermagraphics, you owe it to yourself to stop by and meet Desiree. After you meet her, you'll want her and only her to be the artist that helps design your new look!
CHAPTER 2 Is it PC, PMU, MP, DA, Dermagraphics, or MT?
I hear the term Permanent Cosmetics (PC), Permanent Makeup (PMU), Micropigmentation (MP), DermaArt (DA), and Dermagraphics used in regards to cosmetic tattoo, are they the same thing? What is the difference in the terms? Permanent Cosmetics, Permanent Makeup, and Micropigmentation can all be used interchangeably as terms to describe tattooing a permanent cosmetic makeup look onto a person. This is often Eyebrows, Eyeshadow, Eyelash enhancement, Eyeliner, Lipliner, Lip Blush/Lip Tint, Lips (Full Color), Cheek Blush & Contouring, and Beauty Marks. DermaArt is the application of pigment for Permanent Makeup procedures that is intended to result in a natural look. When people request DermaArt enhancement of their lip, brow, cheek blush & contouring, or eyelash enhancement the pigment is done in such a way that is subtle enough that it looks natural and not applied. Dermagraphics , Micropigmentation, Medical Tattoo can be interchangeably used to describe Paramedical Tattooing and skin rejuvenating procedures utilizing Permanent Cosmetics techniques and/or equipment for the sake of permanent cosmetic enhancement. This might include, but is not limited to, procedures that are more paramedical or corrective in nature, so as to create a more restored look to the affected area such as: scar or lack of pigment camouflaging, camouflage of missing or receding hair, tattoo areola reconstruction by specialized pigment simulation technique, tattoo removal or concealment/camouflage, micro-needling scar relaxation/collagen stimulation therapy, cleft palate camouflage and facial feature enhancement of the mouth area, and tattooing of simulated eyelashes and/or hair. and skin rejuvenating procedures utilizing Permanent Cosmetics techniques and/or equipment for the sake of permanent cosmetic enhancement
CHAPTER 3 Is it called Long-Lasting Makeup, Semi-Permanent, or Permanent?
The term Long-lasting Makeup is a term used to describe skin staining traditional cosmetics that are meant for long-term wear. These might last several days to several weeks because they stain the skin by means of a specially formulated stain, lake, mineral, or dye blend. Sometimes, for ceremonial or religious use, Henna is used. The term Semi-Permanent can be interchangeably used to describe Long-lasting Makeup or Permanent Makeup. It depends on the method of application and formulation of the pigment being used. The term Permanent is often used to describe the application of pigment into the skin that is meant to be permanently added to the skin, and/or is difficult or impossible to remove. When thinking about this term, most people will ask “was it intended to be applied and left there forever?” If the answer is yes, it should be considered Permanent. There are some temporary pigments implanted into the skin for special functions (medical , religious, or entertainment), and they are not to be confused with permanent pigments. Therefore, whenever pigment is implanted into the skin, you should always ask questions prior to receiving it. Through time, for optimal results, most Permanent Cosmetics slowly fade and will need its color refreshed to maintain its desired enhanced look. When doing so, one should seek the services of a Permanent Cosmetics technician skilled in corrective services since pigment will be implanted over pre-existing pigment.
CHAPTER 4 Terms For Providers
What is the difference in what term a provider uses to call themselves? There are many terms that one can use in the field of Permanent Cosmetics to describe what they do, but there are some with subtle but important differences that make the provider stand out. The term Provider or Technician is some one that has been trained in the field of Permanent Cosmetics to provide these services. These are the most commonly used terms, and when talking in a general sense about a person in the field of Permanent Cosmetics this is the term most often associated with it and used. A Micropigmentologist is often a person that has trained specifically in cosmetic tattoo, and may have had a prior traditional tattoo or nursing experience background prior to when they began doing cosmetic work. Often too, sometimes people with little to no artistic related background, erroneously call themselves a Permanent Cosmetics Artist. A Permanent Cosmetic Artist, in the true sense, is a person whom has prior experience in an artistic field or in the beauty industry. These artists often have extensive prior knowledge of color theory and blending which can be beneficial while they are formulating a complimentary color plan for their clients. For those that specialize in Permanent Cosmetics procedures, and/or Dermagraphics/Paramedical Permanent Cosmetics/Medical Tattoo, and that have completed advanced procedural training, they are often referred to as a Permanent Cosmetics Specialist. Someone who claims to be a PCS can be specialized in either advanced procedures for Cosmetics or Dermagraphics or both, so ask as many use this term as inclusive to describe knowing both or only one. By far, this is the most skilled and sought after Permanent Cosmetics provider type. Because of their high level of skill and expertise, and their vast knowledge of various procedures, they are often in high demand. Someone whom only specializes in Dermagraphics/Paramedical Permanent Cosmetics/Medical Tattoo is often called a Medical Tattoo Specialist or a Dermagraphics Specialist. Here are some abbreviations: PCT / PMT = Permanent Cosmetics Technician / Permanent makeup Technician PCA=Permanent Cosmetics Artist MP= Micropigmentologist MTS / DGS = Medical Tattoo Specialist / Dermagraphics Specialist PCS = Permanent Cosmetics Specialist
CHAPTER 5 License & Insurance
Is your permanent makeup technician licensed and insured? Unfortunately, many people rent a space, advertise, and perform permanent cosmetics services that are not licensed and insured. Some claim to be and aren’t while others never mention it either way and rely on prospective clients that assume that they are. In some states there is no requirement for a permanent cosmetics technician to carry insurance, just to obtain a business license. If they are not a licensed and legitimate technician, and if they make a mistake, you could be permanently marked or disfigured with no recourse if they aren’t also insured. Make sure you ask any one that you are considering as your permanent cosmetics technician if they are licensed and insured, and with whom. If they say can’t or won’t provide this information to you on request, then you should see or be told this as a serious red flag. Always ask for proof of their license and insurance at their place of business before you agree to have them perform services on you and/or pay them.
CHAPTER 6 Portfolio & Testimonials
Does your PMU technician have before and after portfolio? Video testimonials have dates on them? Do they have recent testimonials? Will they allow you to contact them about their experience? What should you think about their online reviews? So what is the best way to find someone good? Some technicians will have Before and After photos on their website, and others will provide them in office in a portfolio book. Not everyone keeps photos in photo books to display, but most insurance companies require them to take Before and After photos as part of their coverage requirements, so your technician should have some to show you if requested. They cannot tell you who the client is in the photo, due to client privacy issues (and in some states due to privacy laws), but they can show you Before and After photos so you can see examples of their work and skill level. Remember too that immediately after the procedure, when the After photos are taken, that it is common for there to be some amount of redness, swelling, and unevenness due to swelling in the area that had just had a procedure performed on it. Sometimes a technician will have video testimonials online for you to see as well. This can be helpful as it can show you the Before and the immediate After of the client that has just received the procedure. It does not usually, however, show you the healed and finished product because that occurs at a later time. You must keep this in mind because the healed look includes the initial procedure and possibly an additional application once totally healed. Sometimes the videos do not have dates on them. This may be because the video was recorded without the date recorded or edited not to reflect this. Somewhere, whether on a video testimonial or in an online review, it should show the date, even if only in the posting’s title, so you know it is reflective of the work the technician is doing at the time you are considering seeing them. Others may simply be videos they may not own. Although most people are ethical, once in awhile you will come across someone that posts someone else’s video of their work as their own. Most technicians will not allow you contact previous clients due to privacy issues, but this does not mean that they shouldn’t have something to show from their previous clients to show you regarding their experience with them. Many technicians ask their clients, immediately following their procedure, for feedback so they can review their performance and the outcome of their procedure in the form of a performance review sheet or a client testimonial. Those should be made available on request with client’s private information blacked out for their privacy. Online reviews and testimonials should come “with-a-grain-of-salt”. This means trust very little in them. It is very easy, in fact it would only take someone minutes, to create a fake email address, use it to register with a review site, then write a testimonial or bad review. I, myself, have been the victim to this when I began putting a business together and was hit with a bunch of bad reviews. One problem though for the person/s leaving them was that I had not even opened for business yet, so I was able to prove them fraudulent and get them removed. Most companies and technicians are not so lucky as once they are open for business and receive bad reviews, the review site leaves them there forever. I have also see companies that opened, and within a very short time of opening seem to have racked up a plentiful amount of positive testimonials and reviews singing their praises. Just as there those, usually competitors feeling threatened by the prospect of someone starting up and taking revenue from them by being in business, and leaving fraudulent bad reviews, there are also those that think that the only way to get customers is to deceive them with fake positive posts. So how do you find someone that is good? I can’t tell you how many times I have been asked that. The simple truth is, by word of mouth. If you see some one that has nice Permanent Makeup or Paramedical Tattoo, ask them whom do it and for some contact information. Ask a plastic surgeon. They often use or refer others to a Permanent Cosmetic Specialist (a Permanent Cosmetics Specialist that has specialized training in Medical Tattoo) to complement their cosmetic body work services.
CHAPTER 7 Experience & Skill
How experienced is the technician and how much training have they had? Initial training was when? Has continuing training been done? When the technician did their training, how much have they had? Did they merely go to an 8 hour lecture and watch slides or videos, or did they go through an extensive program that went over things such as Bloodborne Pathogens Training, Sterilization and Sanitation, Permanent Cosmetics Procedures with hands-on procedures that they performed, did they learn basic and advanced procedures, how to do corrective work, did they learn reconstructive paramedical procedures, Skin Anatomy, Diseases, Conditions, & Disorders, learn manual and machine methods, equipment handling and maintenance, design artistry, color theory, and best business practices? Since Permanent Cosmetics is both technical and artistic, do they have any background in either nursing, beauty, or art? Was their initial training recently, and are they new and inexperienced? The procedure is to be considered permanently affixed to your body, and you’re going to have to live with the result long term, so why wouldn’t you want to have the most qualified technician for the job working on your body? Has the Permanent Cosmetics technician been keeping up their training with the latest and up-to-date techniques in the industry, by continuing their education, or are they continuing to perform only the out-dated practices they learned many years ago? A technician that has continuing education will have credentials to show for it, and should be willing to show them on request.
CHAPTER 8 Technician Background
What is the technician’s background? Is it medical, artistic, both, or neither? How long have they been in Permanent Cosmetics technician or in the beauty industry and how active have they been? A Permanent Cosmetics technician could have a prior background in anything. The nature of the service provided, however, is one mixed with technical skill and artistic skill. Someone from a nursing, artistic, or beauty background usually does well in this industry for this reason. I have found that nurses or former nurses tend to have great attention to detail, hygiene, and symmetry. Those of an artistic nature tend to look at things will a discerning eye while possessing flair of unique style. For those from the beauty industry, this is a short step and crossover to helping their clients attain their desired looks on a more permanent basis, and it is often very rewarding for them. The length of time they have been in the industry can be to their advantage because most people equate length of time to experience, but some people have been in the business a long time and done very little while others have only been in it a short time and been very actively working. What is most important is how high the level of their skill is, their quality of work, their customer service, and their procedural experience.
CHAPTER 9 Procedures
What procedures does the technician offer? There are many different procedures that can be offered in both Permanent Cosmetics & in Dermagraphics. Although there are more, the following are some of the most common Permanent Cosmetic procedures available. A brief description follows each. Remember, it is important to find someone that is skilled, trained, experienced, and competent in whatever procedure you plan on getting because Permanent Cosmetics & Dermagraphics are considered permanent, so be selective. Permanent Cosmetic Procedures: Eyebrows If eyes are the windows to the soul, then the eyebrows are the frame! Some believe that not only do eyebrows frame the eyes but the face as a whole as well. With a nice set of eyebrows, you can define shape, add dimension, depth, and color to compliment your face. Permanent Cosmetics can improve the look of eyebrows that are irregular, sparse, or even missing. We will create a set of eyebrows for you that compliment your face shape, and never needs penciling or powdering in. Beautiful eyebrows can add instant youth to your appearance. Eye Shadow Eyeshadow can make a powerful and dramatic statement. You can use the benefits of eyeshadow to make your eyes look larger, smaller, wider, farther apart, or closer together. Eyeshadow can make or break your look so it is essential that you apply it properly. Eyeshadow is so important because your eyes are such a prominent feature. Many people will notice your eyes first and you can encourage this by using eyeshadow to make your eyes look beautiful and sophisticated. Butterfly Eye Shadow Butterfly Eye Shadow is when more than one color, often three, are used to color, shade, and highlight the eyelid and bridge of the eye below the eyebrow. It is often used with a Brow-line Highlight. Brow-Line Highlight A Brow-Line Highlight is exactly what it sounds to be; it is a light line of highlight that is shaded directly below the eyebrow so as to highlight the eyeshadow, and to open up the eye. An Extended Brow-Line Highlight is when the highlight is brought from the whole length of the eyebrow (tail to inside) then extended to the inner eye. If done correctly, this can really make the eyes “pop”. Eyeliner Dramatic or natural, you can use Eyeliner to accentuate the color of your eyes. Thinner and more natural eyeliner can make eyes look more youthful and dramatic or thick Eyeliner can really make your eyes pop. You can choose to have Upper or Lower eyelids done, or both/full Eyeliner done. You can choose from a variety of different colors, styles, and thickness to create a look as unique as you. Eyelash Enhancement Lash Enhancement can be a great choice for both men and women that want a very subtle and natural looking way of creating a thicker, fuller lash look to your eyes without the look of wearing makeup. Not only does this frame the eye, but it also adds appearance of restored youth to the eye area. Lash enhancement is widely used by models and celebrities. Lipliner Lipliner is a good option for those that have an undefined lip line that do not intend to wear anything else over it, or for those that want to keep changing pale lipstick or colors that only wish to wear so that they already have a predefined lip line for them to stay within. It can correct broken lip shape definition. Ombre Lipliner / Shaded Lipliner Ombre Lipliner is a procedure where a darker color is the perimeter liner and just above it, on the interior, a lighter color is above it and blends into it. This is a good lipliner option for those that want a lipliner look without the abrupt color-stop point as it produces a graduation of the lipliner color into the natural color of the lips. Lip Blush / Lip Tint/ Color Lip Enhancement Lip Blush / Lip Tint is a procedure that adds subtle color added to the lip that can look similar to colored lip gloss or a naturally enhanced lip color look. As we age, our lip vermillion fades, but Lip Blush / Lip Tint can bring this color back for a more youthful look. Lip Blush / Lip Tint provides perfectly shaped lips with a soft, natural color that will restore a more youthful look to the mouth. Lip, Full Color Full Lip Color is a great option for those that want a full color lip as though they are wearing lipstick 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The color can be subtle enough to wear just as-is, with lip gloss, or with actual lipstick over it. Colors can be dramatic or bold too. You can choose from a number of colors. Cheek Blush & Contouring Cheek Blush is something that most women wear, in traditional makeup, on the cheek’s apple in an effort to give themselves a healthy, golden, sun-kissed glow. Contouring is done in an effort to accentuate the features of the cheek hollows and the cheek’s apple, and to slim the appearance of the face. Depending on skin tone and color, often cheek blush is a medium to light pink or coral based color, and the contour is done in a bronze shade. Permanent Cosmetic Blush & Contouring is considered a permanent procedure, however, it is my opinion that most last up to around six months. Beauty Marks Beauty marks have been around for centuries to add a touch of class, sophistication, and allure. They are commonly placed near the mouth, chin, or eye. Some people opt for more than one. Many celebrities wear and/or have beauty marks. Corrective Services Corrective Services are offered to those that are in need due to having previously received permanent cosmetics procedure/s that were not properly done, or due to pigments used, and/or time that has caused them to change or become faded in color. This should only be attempted by a Cosmetics Specialist trained specifically in correction. Dermagraphics / Paramedical Tattoo Procedures: Scar Camouflage Scar Camouflage can be a very positive experience. Many people have experienced an injury or a surgery only to come away from it with a permanent blemish on their skin in the form of a scar. Sometimes these scars affect them emotionally because every time they see it they become selfconscience about how it looks. Scar Camouflage can restore your skin to an even look by blending in pigment to conceal it. If the scar is raised then Microneedling can be used prior to camouflage to relax or smooth the area. Skin Pigment Camouflage Skin Pigment Camouflage is widely used by people with birthmarks, Vitiligo, and other skin pigment issues to restore a natural skin pigment look to their skin. No longer do you have to feel self-conscience because they feel as though others may be staring at these areas of skin. We want you to feel good in the skin that you are in, and look your best, and for skin pigment issues Skin Pigment Camouflage is a great option. Tattoo Removal Countless people have gone out and gotten a tattoo. For many the charm of that said tattoo has been lost, and they regret having gotten it. Unfortunately, there are only a few options on how you can remove a tattoo. There are scrubs, chemicals, surgical procedures, and lasers, but all of these carry a chance to scar or affect the pigmentation of the person receiving these treatments. Not only this, but they are often very expensive too. There are only two known treatments for removing a tattoo that area considered very safe. One option is to conceal it. By using corrective colors and specialized techniques, a specialized technician can provide results just as good if not better than traditional tattoo removal techniques with Tattoo Camouflage service. The other is by a product which is applied to the unwanted pigment the same way they got a tattoo, by tattooing it in. The product, once in the skin, breaks down the pigment which allows for it to be pushed out of and eliminated by the skin. This product has a scar inhibitor built-in which is why it is considered a relatively safe option over lasers and other options that can be potentially damaging to the skin. Either option are effective and take many sessions to achieve desired results of most if not full tattoo removal, however, they are often less traumatizing to the skin and less costly as other options as well which are added benefits to those seeking tattoo removal. Simulated Areola Reconstruction Over time, most women experience fading of the Areolas of the breasts. After breast augmentation, reconstruction, or reduction surgeries there can be surgical scarring left on the Areolas. For Breast Cancer survivors that have undergone a Mastectomy procedure, whether or not they have prosthetics/implants for breasts, they no longer have Areolas or nipples of the breast. This can leave them feeling incomplete, embarrassed by their body, and unable to feel good in their own skin. It can even affect their confidence and self-esteem. Whatever the reason for pigmentation loss of the Areolas, for both men and women, Dermagraphics is a great option that can restore them to a more complete and youthful look. Simulated Eyelashes Simulated Eyelashes are a great option for those with Alopecia and eyelash hair loss due to other factors or conditions that affect the ability to grow them. Simulated eyelashes are permanently applied to the skin to provide the look of a natural lash. No one will likely know they aren't real eyelashes unless you point it out and tell them! Simulated Hair Restoration Many men and women have thinning or missing hair. There are limited options for treatment, many of which are expensive and/or require regular ongoing care to maintain. Some options are only good short term because once you stop treatment and/or use of their products, your look goes back to the way it was before you started. So why not invest in something that lasts? For those that don't have or want to spend so much money, or have to invest in and become dependent on products, lug them around to use them, or spend lots of time doing the prescribed maintenance regimen to keep up the look of restored hair, Simulated Hair Restoration is an excellent option. Once done, the look can last for many years. Like a traditional tattoo, the only maintenance you may wish to do is a touch-up of color to refresh its look every so many years as desired. Skin Rejuvenation by Collagen Induction Therapy / Microneedling / Dry Needling Skin Rejuvenation Through Collagen Induction Therapy / Microneedling is a centuries old treatment that has been used worldwide. Over the course of the last few decades, the demand for this service has taken off, and for good reason. The way it works is a tiny needle or needles are used and penetrate into the dermis. This stimulates the body to produce collagen and new skin cells which naturally restores the skin. This is a great option for men and women that want a more youthful look or clearer even skin tone without subjecting themselves to the use of often expensive and harsh and/or potentially damaging chemical or acid peels, lasers, dermabrasion, or facelift procedures. Recovery time is usually quick and results are usually noticeable soon after treatment. Microneedling can be used for: Wrinkles- Face, Lips, Body Acne or Trauma Scarring Stretch Marks Sun Damage to Face and Chest Neck Wrinkles Improving skin texture Cellulite
CHAPTER 10 Expectations
Do they have realistic expectations? What is achievable and what is not achievable should be in question. The Permanent Cosmetics technician should not agree to work on any and every one that walks through their door and requests it simply because they want to make money from selling and performing a procedure. Unfortunately, in rare instances, some people are found to have pre-existing conditions which would prevent them from being a candidate for Permanent Cosmetics. In this case, the technician would have to require that the person get medical approval first from a doctor stating that they are healthy enough to receive the service. From time to time, the technician will undoubtedly come across a potential client that comes to them with an unreasonable request for a result that can neither be provided as the client wishes or that they feel should not be performed. For example, a woman of older age coming to a provider and showing a picture of a woman more than half her age in hopes that the service will make her look as youthful as the woman in the photo. There are many benefits to Permanent Cosmetics, but it is not a magic wand. Another example would be if a potential client were to ask for lips to be so far defined and colored in outside of their natural structural area that doing so would be more disfiguring than a cosmetic improvement. Another issued the Permanent Cosmetics technician might encounter is one of mental health issues. For example, it is not uncommon for one to come across a person whose partner is urging them to get the service done. If this person’s motivation for getting a permanent procedure done to their body is so as to please another, and not themselves, then the technician should decline. Permanently altering your looks should not be seen as a potential way to try to fix problems or issues within a relationship. An ethical technician will only perform services on and for those that are candidates that have realistic expectations.
CHAPTER 11 Association Membership
Do they belong to Permanent Cosmetics associations? There are many associations that a Permanent Cosmetics technician can join. If you see that one is associated with an association, you may want to research it. Not all are created equal. Although there are few associations that lead the industry by setting and upholding certain standards, and they require that in order to become a member that you first must prove your skill proficiency is at a certain level in order to join them, there are many more associations out there that require nothing more than a mere fee to be paid to them in order to join. This is not what most in the industry would consider ethical representation, but many do it in order to appear more trustworthy by using an association membership logo and citing membership. Some technicians even display association logos to associations they are not even a member of. This is why researching the means in which a person can become a member of that association, and by contacting that association to make sure they are indeed associated with them and in current good standing with them is important.
CHAPTER 12 Impression of technician
What was your first impression of the technician? Do they look clean, were they patient, seem knowledgeable in the area of expertise you are looking for services. When you first spoke with your Permanent Cosmetics technician were they able to provide you with a good overall impression? Was there anything about them, whether you could put your finger on it or not, that made you uncomfortable or uneasy? If so, then trust your gut instincts. They may be trying to tell you something. When you met the technician, were their clothes and body clean and sanitary? Did they act pushy, trying to get you to commit to a procedure or to book an appointment, or were they patient? Did the technician sound as though they were knowledgeable about the area of expertise in which you are considering them to perform for you? Did they answer all your questions?
CHAPTER 13 Consultations
Is the person consulting with you also the person that will perform procedural services on you? Do they offer you a FREE consultation & give you time to think about it or are they pushy to book you? What to expect at your initial consultation. Is the person that is performing your consultation with you the actual technician that would be performing your Permanent Cosmetics and/or Dermagraphics procedure/s on you? Many times an office might have someone other than the technician that performs the procedures do the consultations. This is not always a good thing because sometimes your wishes are not conveyed properly to the technician, and then accidents with your procedure can happen. It is essentially a matter of playing “telephone” where you tell the consultant what you want and exactly how and where, and then, if you book your procedure with that office, that person notes it into your file for the technician to read or they may tell them some of it in passing. That could be a bit later that day or many days later when you’ve shown back up to get your procedure done, and they are quickly reviewing what you are there to get done that day just prior to performing it. So, you could tell the consultant “I want thin light golden brown eyebrows with an arch 2/3 of the way down with a rounded corner” but the consultant might have written down “light brown eyebrows”. What color will you get? Cool, Neutral, Warm? Will it have an arch? Will the corner be rounded? Will you remember to tell the technician exactly what you want so what’s in the chart won’t be the only information they have to go on as to what they are expected to do? For this reason, I highly recommend that you have at least one meeting prior to your procedure with the actual technician that will perform your procedure. I also recommend that you review with them again, just prior to the procedure, what it is that you want done. They may be the only person that you met with regarding this procedure in the past few days or weeks since your last meeting with them, but they have likely met with many potential clients, some of which may have come in looking for the same exact procedure that you consulted with them about. You will find that some technicians do their services because they love what they do, and some do it for the money. Those interested in cultivating long term relationships, value their loyalty through return for future services and referrals, know that going the extra mile with FREE consultations and great customer service will go a long way, and they don’t nickel-and-dime you for every little service they provide. Keep this in mind, and ask if they provide this. During your initial consultation, your prospective technician should have you fill out several forms. You will be asked about your medical history, current health, any medications or blood thinners you are currently taking, whether or not you have a pre-existing condition that would prolong healing, what you hope to get out of the experience and your expectations from the procedure, and several other questions to ensure you are (medically) good candidate for receiving the procedure. You can ask questions, the technician should answer them, and tell you if based on your consult so far if you are a good candidate to proceed. The technician should then explain the procedure to you, how you prepare for the procedure, and do a patch test on you. This is a small lancet with a drop of pigment that is to be used at the time of procedure to be scratch into the skin in an inconspicuous place to see if there is any allergic reaction. At that time you will be most likely charged a booking fee to reserve your procedure appointment (that is applied to your procedure fee), and you will be given written pre-procedural instructions to take with you.
CHAPTER 14 Pigments
What pigments do they use? Not all pigments are alike. You need to know what to avoid. There are none that are FDA approved specifically for Permanent Cosmetics but that doesn’t mean that all pigments are the same. There are several brands of pigments that have been specifically formulated and developed for Permanent Cosmetics that have had a documented record of zero to very rare allergic reactions. Unfortunately, to save on expense, some people are using tattoo inks in Permanent Cosmetics, and the majority of them contain toxic ingredients in them not meant for this type of application. Used in the wrong areas, in the wrong way, or with equipment not meant for Permanent Cosmetics, this can cause skin reactions ranging from mild to severe, scarring, color altering problems (dark colors turning ash and warm colors turning orange) and retention in the skin to name only a few. Make sure you find out what pigment brand they are planning to use, and then research it to make sure you are getting a quality product meant for the area it is planning to be used on.
CHAPTER 15 Preparing For Procedure & What They Do That Day
What do you need to do days prior to getting your procedure? On the day of your procedure, what will they do for you? Proper preparation of the body and skin is necessary for the safest and best possible outcome for your Permanent Cosmetics & Dermagraphics procedures. Certain things applied to the skin can affect their ability to absorb or retain the pigment/s used. There are also certain things that you can eat, drink, apply, or take that can affect healing as well. These are important to understand so you know what to avoid and for how long prior to your procedure date. During your consultation, or when you booked the appointment for procedure – if it was another day -, you should have been given Pre-Procedure Care Instructions and had been given a patch test. The patch test ensured that you had no allergy to the pigment/s that you are going to have used in your Permanent Cosmetic Procedure/s, the Pre-Procedure Care information will tell you what actions you must take or refrain from prior to your procedure. This may mean not drinking or eating certain things, taking certain medications (,however, before stopping any prescription medication you should get your doctor’s approval to do so & find out if you are a not medically a good candidate to receive Permanent Cosmetics), using or refraining from using certain products on the skin, hydrating, and more. On the day of the procedure, your technician should ask you many questions about how you want your new look. They should draw it out, define where it begins and ends, select color with you, and even offer you suggestions based on their experience and expertise, however, the final decision is up to you. No technician should begin any procedure without having first gone over what you want with you, drawn it out for you to see, and get your approval first that what you have decided on is in fact your final decision before beginning any procedure. This may sound like common-sense, however, many technicians simply draw on what they want to see on their clients and do not ask if they like them. They may even begin a procedure without drawing any “mock-up” of what it will look like prior in an effort to save time. This is NOT okay for Permanent Cosmetics, as if it keeps two important things from happening; #1: there is no visual for the client receiving the Permanent Cosmetics service to see so they can fully grasp the shape, size, and placement of the where the pigment will be so they can properly approve it, & #2: there is no guide as to where to properly place the pigment for the technician to follow. With Dermagraphics/Medical Tattoo this isn’t always necessary, however, it is highly recommended that professionals in the industry adhere to this for all Permanent Cosmetic procedures. What A Technician Typically Does The Day Of Your Procedure: Step 1: The technician will often remove all your makeup and cleanse the skin. In most areas, except the eyes, the procedure area is then prepped with some alcohol wipes. Air drying or using disposable towels, cotton (non-shedding swabs, rounds, or balls) are recommended. Step 2: The area is usually numbed with anesthetic. A topical is recommended because dental blocks & injectable anesthetics can cause unnecessary swelling and bruising, fluid retention, pooling or migrating of pigment, and distortion of the skin for calculating symmetry which can make application difficult. Step3: The next step will be to measure your facial features and establish as much symmetry as possible. No one is perfectly symmetrical and many people have one side that has larger features. Some of this can be corrected by Permanent Cosmetics. It is important to remember that the purpose of Permanent Cosmetics & Dermagraphics is to enhance your existing looks, and it is not a cure-all. Step 4: Markings are made to make a design for you to approve as to how and where the pigment shall be applied. This is the time to adjust the shape, placement, and size to the way you will want to wear it. Step 5: You give final “mock-up” approval and the technician begins to apply pigment to those areas. Keep in mind that while every effort is made to make the Permanent Cosmetics as closely resemble the approved “mock-up” look, there are affecting factors, and the final look cannot be seen until the area has been worked on, it has healed, the follow-up color boost to refine the procedure has been applied, and that too has healed. It is very important to be patient, to follow all pre and post procedure care instructions, and to have realistic expectations. People that do this tend to have the best experiences and possible outcomes with Permanent Cosmetics & Dermagraphics.
CHAPTER 16 After Care Do they offer you FREE after care package?
Again, this goes with caring about your client. Most technicians offer FREE aftercare packages along with verbal and written aftercare instructions. Some even offer some FREE products to help you maintain your aftercare. Unfortunately, some only provide the minimum aftercare disclosures required by their establishment or provider licensing/registration entity as required by law and nothing more unless you pay an additional fee for it. Be sure to ask. Usually an after care package might include written instructions for how to care for your Permanent Cosmetic and/or Dermagraphics procedure area at home while it heals. Some technicians might also provide you with a list of supplements that they personally feel might aid in the healing and recovery process as well. The most popular that are recommended are Arnica and Bromelain tablets or caplets. Creams are not recommended. These are to be followed as recommended on their bottles by their makers, and can be found over-the-counter at most health food, nutrition, or pharmacy store. For those planning on having a procedure on or around the lips or mouth that have ever had a Cold Sore/Fever Blister in the past, you will need to begin taking precautionary measures by supplement or prescription prior to the procedure. It is highly recommended that if you have ever had a cold sore/fever blister that you get and begin taking a prescription for it prior to beginning your initial procedure to the lips or mouth area. There are 2 most commonly used medications available to you by doctor prescription for this are Valtrex or Zovirax. The most common prescriptions for Valtrex/ Valacyclovirare 1500mg in a single dose , OR 500mg once per day for 7 days. Zovirax/Acyclovir is usually taken for 7 days after your procedure. Famvir/Famiciclovir can be prescribed as well and is usually taken once daily, however, it can cause an allergic reaction in some. The decision of what medication and dosage you will have, and for how long, will be determined by your doctor. Prescription is recommended, but should you choose not to get and use one you can take L-Lysine which is an amino acid supplement commonly taken for fever blister prevention and treatment. It is over-the-counter/nonprescription and found at most pharmacies, health food stores, supplement stores, and chain stores in the vitamin isle. Usually, dosage taken for the prevention of an outbreak is 625mg of L-Lysine twice a day for 7 days, with the first dose given the day before the procedure. The dose should be increased to 1875mg per day when an outbreak is suspected of coming on, and during, until the outbreak and symptoms are gone. Another recommendation to use, with Lysine, is a multi-vitamin taken once daily that contains 500mg of Vitamin C & some Zinc. Avoid multivitamins that contain Gelatin and Dicalcium Phosphate, as Gelatin can trigger herpes outbreaks and Dicalcium Phospate can affect the body’s ability to utilize these and other nutrients.
CHAPTER 17 Healing
The process for healing with vary from person to person because each will heal at different rates. Generally speaking, however, after a Permanent Cosmetics or Dermagraphics procedure that body will go through what is called the “wheel & flare” stage. This is when, immediately following getting a procedure, the skin gets inflamed and turns a pink-red color in the procedure area and is surrounded by a whiter area on the perimeter. The type of procedure you have may require you to keep it dry or keep it most until it heals. The process is simple. The body goes through the “wheel & flare” stage (whereas the body is reacting to the trauma), then the procedure area begins to heal itself by developing a thin dried layer of skin. Once this falls off the color can look very faded or even gone until new skin comes upward. Once the new skin is exposed, the color tends to come back some. The new skin is usually shiny at first. Once this skin begins to dull the skin is healed. Because this cycle ca take weeks to complete, the follow-up appointment/s should be scheduled between 4-6 weeks & within 90 days after the (last) procedure. Typically, Permanent Makeup appointments are scheduled 4-6 weeks after and for Paramedical Tattoo 6-8 weeks after. This is of course up to the technician and your discretion.
CHAPTER 18 Follow-up with color boost
Do they offer you follow-up apts and color boost apts at a discount if paid in advance? Will they perform a color boost touch-up appointment if it is needed or do they charge full price for a new procedure? What time frame is considered a color boost vs new procedure to them? Every procedure requires at least one application. Most procedures require two, sometimes more depending on how well the color retained after healing. This can be due to skin physiology, the pigment or application technique used, or how the client performed the aftercare. Because of this, at the 4-6 week mark after procedure, the procedure area should be looked at by the technician to assess whether or not a color boost touch-up is needed at that time to achieve the desired results. Your technician should be willing to retouch it as needed to achieve the desired result (within reason) at nominal fee to you within the first few months from the time of the original procedure to the area. Assessment is done within the first two (2) months from the time of the initial procedure to the area. Anything after is a color boos or a new initial procedure to enhance existing pigment/s.
CHAPTER 19 Facility condition
Does the facility look clean and sanitary? Does the procedure area look clean and free of any dirt and grime? Are there any signs of used procedural materials not properly disposed of? Does the floor, walls, window coverings, and equipment look clean? Are there any signs of biological matter such as blood or bodily fluids visible anywhere? Is the trash taken care of or is it overflowing? How well does the procedure area look in terms of how well the establishment has maintained it being kept clean and sanitary? Are there any smells present that would indicate there is excessive soiled, musty, moldy, or waste material present whether or not you can see it?
CHAPTER 20 Condition of technician
Are they hygienic? Does the PMU technician use new, sealed, sanitary, and disposable needles for each individual client for safe practices? Many Permanent Cosmetic technicians use different types of equipment. Ask them if they use some portion of reusable materials that need to cleaned and re-sterilized along with single-use needles, or if they only use fully/100% single-use disposable materials that come individually packed and presterilized for each client. If they reuse some items to perform procedures, then how do they clean and sterilize them, and can you see their log to verify this? Since almost every governing, licensing, or registration entity requires a log kept, this should be no problem for them to show you. Beware of a technician that says they keep logs to prove sterilization of instruments, but refuse to allow you to see documentation to support that they actually do it.
CHAPTER 21 Anesthetics & Pain Control Training
Does the PMU technician use topical anesthetics or give options to ease procedure discomfort? Do they offer this to you FREE or do they charge you additionally for this? Are they trained in pain control? Most technicians will have over-the-counter topical anesthetics they can offer you to ease the procedure discomfort, but not all of them offer it for FREE. In fact, many offer it only if you are willing to pay an additional fee for this. Not only do topicals cost the technician money, so they charge the client to recoup this expense, but they can also use them as an additional means to profit by charging for them. Be sure to ask your prospective technician if they provide this service FREE of charge or not. If they do, and you don’t want to pay that fee (the average is between $40-75 per area), then can you provide your own topical? Typically the topical they have is for the particular area to be worked on, so keep in mind not all topicals can be used everywhere nor are they formulated the same. Some can cause damage if used in the wrong area. For this reason, technicians that use topical anesthetics should have some sort of pain control education as well.
CHAPTER 22 Payments
What kind of payments do they take? If paying by credit card, what will the charge read on your billing statement? Do they provide receipts for cash payments? What about Payment fees? Do they offer options like credit card and cash? Because of the high risk forged or bounced checks, which result in not getting paid or incurring a charge by their bank for a bounced check fee, most technicians do not accept checks. When you do pay by credit card, will it say on the billing statement? Will it show what services you received, the company name, or the provider/technician’s name on your billing statement? Most will simply state the name of the business, the date, and the amount paid. If you need something more detailed, then ask for a detailed receipt. Does your technician only take cash and not want to give a receipt? This could be a red flag that they don’t want any trace that they performed worked on you. Someone that is not reporting all their income or not properly licensed might do this to avoid evidence they were performing services when they should not have been. Paying cash is fine as long as you and the technician have a copy of the paperwork signed by both parties stating what was paid for (service to be done), and a receipt for all monies paid for services. Does the technician use a payment processing service (for credit cards or bank account) that charges a fee? If so, is the technician charged or the client using the service? Most of the time it is the technician, but depending on the processing service and the type of account they have you could incur a charge so it is best to ask about this before making a payment.
CHAPTER 23 Discounts, Specials, & Gift Certificates
Are they willing to discount for multiple services paid for at once? Will they do them all at one time or during how many visits? Kinds of special offers usually exist. Do the specials expire? Was there promotional value vs actual value applied to them? Do they offer Gift Certificates? Most technicians will offer some sort of a discount for those that prepay for multiple services. Some technicians will only do one service during a procedural appointment, while others are willing to do more than one back-to-back in a single appointment time slot. It is up to the individual technician’s discretion. Depending on the procedure, each procedure can take 1-2 hours so spacing them out can be good for both client and technician. This way the client isn’t spending the healing process in too much discomfort, nor is the skin over-worked, and the technician is working well rested and able to properly focus during each session. Usually, technicians will provide special offers for their potential clients certain times of the year. This is usually around holidays such as Valentine’s Day or Christmas because many people like to give gift certificates for services as gifts. If interested in a service around these times of year, then after selecting your potential technician, ask if they are offering any specials at that time or will be soon so you can purchase one at that price. Most will be flattered that you have thought ahead about this, and chosen them, and may even allow you to purchase early if you ask so as to secure your business rather than letting you walk away and hoping that you will come back at a later date and time to do so. In this case, it could be a win-win for both parties involved. If they do offer specials, find out if they expire or not. Most do. Did they run an ad to discount their services by offering credit purchased for a portion of the actual usual price, and after a certain time does it lose its promo value? Many specials come with a catch. Let’s say they usually offer their service for $600 but they are selling vouchers or services in an ad for just $300. What happens when the voucher or ad discount price expiration date passes and it has not been redeemed? Are you out all your money? Are your out the difference of the different of the usual price and the promo price? If so, that means to redeem it with only credit for the actual price paid you might owe them in order to get any service at all. Make sure you ask. Do they offer Gift Certificates? If so, in what amount? Do they expire? Can they be used by anyone/are they transferrable or must it be assigned/gifted to one person and used by that person only? If they person you are giving it to doesn’t want it, is there a certain amount of time after purchasing it that you can bring it back for a refund?
Chapter 24 Cancelations, reschedules, & deposits
Cancelations, reschedules, and deposits are all things that should be discussed during your consultation before you book your first procedural appointment. Permanent Cosmetic technicians are usually in high demand and because of this their time equals money. Most technicians book their schedules according to when a client wants to come in along with their availability, and considering how long each appointment will take. Because this is a “first-come-first-served” way of doing things, the technician loses money should a client cancel because that slot was reserved and they may or not be able to be refill it in its entirety for that time frame so as not to lose any revenue. To ensure that they will be compensated, at least partially, for that time and loss of potential income, most technicians require that you fully pay for your appointment or that you pay a deposit to hold you appointment time (then pay the remaining balance for the procedure the day of the procedure prior to it). If you cancel, miss your appointment, or show up too late to complete your procedure in your scheduled time slot, then you may incur a fee as well even if a deposit has not been taken, so ask the technician about this. There are some exceptions to this. Many technicians will wave a fee for having to reschedule a procedural appointment if you call them in advance with at least a specified amount of time notice being given to them. For example, a technician might state that they must have 48 hours or more notice to avoid a penalty or fee. Exceptions for reschedules or missed appointments that are generally accepted by many technicians, where rescheduled fees are waved, are usually if there has been a natural occurrence beyond your control (car died on the way there, sudden extreme weather, etc.), an accident, sudden onset of illness, or death of someone close to you.
The #1 thing you need to do is…
NOT choose a Permanent Cosmetics technician Based On Price. Permanent Cosmetics can range in prices from $200-$1500 per procedure, and there is a very good reason for this. Never choose on price alone, rather on the competency and skill of the Permanent Cosmetics Technician. Bargain basement prices are usually reflective of someone trying to make money by merely booking & doing as many procedures as possible. They are most often concerned with quantity over quality, and when it is going on your body you want the peace of mind in knowing you are getting quality service from a technician willing to take their time to do it right, not rushed. Be especially wary of those using promotional bargain websites with huge discounts for services, such as 50% off or more deals in order to make prospective clients feel the need and urgency to snatch up these deals before they expire or they risk missing out on some great deal for cheap. Often times they are no deal at all. There is a reason why sometimes they seem to be too good to be true. Cheap doesn’t always mean good value for what you pay. For instance, if a person advertises they make $400 per procedure but is offering a promo deal price with this advertiser website for it now only being $150, they will likely have to pay them a split fee to show that deal ad there to their customers. That means out of the $150 they may get to keep about $75 of that. After $25-$50 in supply fees to perform the service (not taking into consideration their overhead and taxes), that person may only take home a few dollars. In a desperate attempt to make as much money as possible, these people sell and do as many procedures off those sites as they possibly can. Unfortunately, they are usually booked solid back-toback for weeks or months trying to fulfill those vouchers so their quality of work often suffers because they are just trying to crank them out a quickly as possible. Many technicians make the mistake of doing this back to back with as many promo deal advertising websites as they can because they don’t understand marketing to get clients, and they are desperate to keep some money coming in. Unfortunately, they usually end up burnt out, or pushed out of business due to all the unsavory reviews they can get as a result of their quality work suffering from the break-neck pace they often find themselves working in in order to keep fulfilling the services they sold (through having offered their promo deal vouchers in the first place). This can become a viscous cycle if they aren’t careful. This isn’t always the case. There are some technicians that will only offer these deals once in a great while (so as to get free advertising to a large audience of new prospective clients). To find out who does this or not, you can do a quick Internet search with their name and/or company name, you can call these technicians and ask them and see if they tell you (and hopefully they will honestly answer), or you can call and ask the promo deal website’s customer service phone number to see if they will let you know if they have run ads for them before and how many times. Often, they will flat out tell you, “Yes, they’ve ran an ad with us a few times in the past year”. No matter how you find your Permanent Cosmetics technician, do your due diligence and research them thoroughly. Permanent Cosmetics & Medical Tattoo is considered permanent, and on your body, so when choosing a Permanent Cosmetics technician, make sure you choose the technician that you feel most confident about being able to perform the procedure you are seeking getting done. They may not be the cheapest, the best often aren’t, but the additional investment is often worth it. Prices can be generally reflective of experience, education and training, and demand for their services, so keep this in mind. Not all technicians are the same. Remember, whomever you choose, this person/technician is going to be permanently tattooing your face and/or body, so pick wisely by making an informed decision (not by making an impulsive deal buy). You’ll thank yourself for it. After all, it is better to pay a little more for someone that can do the service right, and you end up getting what you want, rather than to pay a bit less, only for the sake of paying less, upfront and ending up with bad, disfiguring work that may require additional (corrective) permanent cosmetics, expensive laser therapy, or even surgery to remove it. My advice to you is to do your research, find and utilize the person you feel will provide the most competent service for your permanent cosmetics procedure, and don’t let price be the biggest factor in making your decision of whom you choose. Good luck, and if you ever have any questions you can reach me through my website at CenterForPMU.com Sincerely, Desiree Lauterbach
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